French maison Hermès has dared to challenge what’s normal in luxury fashion by initiating a groundbreaking sustainable leather collection. In a major move toward environmental responsibility, the iconic brand that is synonymous with world class craftsmanship and timeless design introduced its new line today at a star studded event in Paris.

Éco-Cuir is a collection comprised of various handbags, accessories, and small leather goods all made out of imaginative, eco friendly materials. Hermès has joined forces with a leading-edge biotechnological company to bring to light a leather alike derived from fungus mycelium, resembling the appearance and touch of their leather, but cutting the environmental footprint down in half.

Hermès CEO Axel Dumas was enthusiastic about the new collection, saying, “For Hermès, excellence and innovation have been two of our pillars. Bringing Éco-Cuir to life, we are not only continuing to raise the bar of Luxury as we know it, but also setting the standard for a more sustainable future in luxury fashion. It’s a timely launch for the luxury sector, which has been heavily scrutinised for its environmentally and sustainability practises.

The strategy has been praised by industry analysts, who say it represents a potential game changer for the luxury market. “There’s nothing wrong with having sustainable luxury — this move by Hermès could set a new standard for it,” said luxury goods analyst Sarah Johnson of Morgan Stanley. Young, environmentally aware consumers who have been demanding that high end brands engage in more responsible practises are more likely to find it an appealing prospect.’

Displayed in the Éco-Cuir collection, Hermès reimagined the company’s most iconic pieces, like the Birkin and Kelly bags, as well as new designs made especially to demonstrate the versatility of the sustainable material. The prices for the collection are in line with what Hermès has traditionally offered to stay true to the luxury positioning, but also adapt to the new culture of sustainability.

A gathering of celebrities, influencers and industry types attended the nose launch event, which took place at the historic Petit Palais. Attendees got to see how the new materials felt and were surprised by the quality and feel of the sustainable leather alternatives. Longtime environmental advocate French actress Marion Cotillard praises the initiative, ‘It’s great to see a brand like Hermès doing such a big step in the direction of sustainability.’ As demonstrated by this, luxury and environmental responsibility work well together.’

But the launch of Éco-Cuir comes in a difficult time for the luxury market. Adding to these worries are recent economic uncertainty especially in important markets such as China. With these headwinds, however, Hermès is optimistic about the collection’s prospects. ‘We think we can continue to thrive in difficult market conditions by selling our clients products that are consistent with their values,’ Dumas has noted.

Hermès has invested in research and development over a period of years to develop Éco-Cuir. In the coming years, the brand promises it will expand the technology to other categories.

While the initiative has been cautiously welcomed by environmental groups, they are calling on for a more transparent process of production. While this is a positive step, Hermès and other luxury brands must now provide full disclosure on their supply chains, and the impact the production of these products could have on the environment, said Greenpeace fashion campaigner Lisa Roche.

From the perspective of an industry with a huge call to behave more sustainably, this is a test of whether consumers will embrace a sustainable luxury foray. If successful, this could nudge other high end brands to speed up their own sustainability efforts, fundamentally changing the face of luxury.

With a new chapter for Hermès upon its path, the brand must not only continue to uphold its exclusivity and craftsmanship reputation but also attract a new audience — a new generation of environmentally aware majority. Éco-Cuir could be the first step towards real sustainable luxury: the luxury industry could exemplarily bring together heritage, innovation, and environmental responsibility.

At a crossroads for the global luxury market, Hermès’ bold ÉcoCuir promise could establish the tone for the future for the industry. With greater and greater demands from consumers on both quality and sustainability in their luxury purchases, it’s brands who can tread this new path successfully that may come to be leaders of tomorrow’s luxury market.